10 Dec
Eyelashes, Lash lift

Eyelash Anatomy

Understanding the intricate structure of eyelashes is crucial for beauty professionals to deliver exceptional treatments and maintain the health of their clients’ lashes. This comprehensive guide delves into the complex anatomy of eyelashes, providing insights that will enhance your expertise and refine your techniques.

Basic Lash Structure

Every eyelash is a marvel of natural engineering, composed of three primary components that beauty professionals must thoroughly understand to deliver optimal treatments:

Image source: https://www.harleystreethairtransplant.co.uk/hair-structure/

  1. Cuticle Layer
  • The outermost protective layer is composed of overlapping scales, similar to shingles on a roof.
  • It plays a vital role in controlling moisture retention and product penetration, which is critical for determining processing times during treatments.
  • The cuticle layer can be easily damaged by harsh chemicals and excessive processing, leading to brittle and unhealthy lashes.
  • Understanding the condition of the cuticle is essential for selecting appropriate products and techniques for each client.
  1. Cortex
  • The main body of the lash contains keratin proteins, which give the lash its strength and flexibility.
  • It houses melanin deposits that determine the natural colour of the lash, ranging from light blonde to deep black.
  • The cortex provides structural strength and elasticity, allowing lashes to withstand daily wear and tear.
  • It contains important chemical bonds that affect lifting and curling processes, making it a key focus during lash treatments.
  1. Medulla
  • The central core of the lash may be present or absent depending on lash thickness.
  • While less relevant for most lash treatments, understanding its presence can help in assessing overall lash health and strength.
  • The medulla contributes to the lash’s insulating properties and can affect how light reflects off the lash, impacting its appearance.

Chemical Bonds and Treatment Implications

A deep understanding of the three types of bonds in lashes is crucial for successful treatments and long-lasting results:

Hydrogen Bonds: Supporting Lash Strength (30%) and Flexibility (50%)

  • These bonds are easily broken by water and heat, which is why hair can be temporarily reshaped when wet.
  • During wet processing, hydrogen bonds allow for temporary restructuring of the lash shape.
  • As hair dries, these bonds reform, helping to maintain the new shape created during treatment.

Salt Bonds: Contributing 35% to Strength and 50% to Elasticity

  • These bonds are significantly affected by pH changes in the lash environment.
  • Selecting the appropriate curling lotion is crucial, as it directly impacts these bonds.
  • Salt bonds reform when the pH is neutralised, which is why proper neutralisation after treatment is essential for long-lasting results.
  • Technicians must carefully consider the pH of all products used during lash treatments to maintain optimal lash health.

Disulfide Bonds

  • These are the strongest permanent bonds within the lash structure.
  • Disulfide bonds are only altered by chemical treatments, making them the primary target during lash lifting procedures.
  • Understanding disulfide bonds is crucial when using professional lash lift products to achieve the desired curl.
  • The reformation of these bonds during the fixing process is what creates the long-lasting lift effect.
  • Careful manipulation of disulfide bonds is essential for achieving dramatic and durable lash transformations.

Growth Cycle Assessment

Professional lash technicians must have a thorough understanding of the three phases of lash growth to provide optimal treatments and maintenance advice:

Anagen (Growth) Phase

  • This active growth phase typically lasts 30-60 days.
  • Approximately 40% of upper lashes are in this phase at any given time.
  • Lashes in the anagen phase require gentle handling during treatments to avoid disrupting their growth.
  • This phase is ideal for starting new treatment cycles, as the lashes are at their strongest and most receptive to shaping.

Catagen (Transition) Phase

  • This 2-3 week transition period is crucial in the lash life cycle.
  • During this phase, the hair follicle begins to shrink, making the lash more sensitive to chemical processes.
  • Treatments performed during this phase may affect the retention of extensions or the longevity of lifts.
  • Technicians should be aware of this phase when scheduling follow-up appointments to ensure optimal results.

Telogen (Resting) Phase

  • This phase can last over 100 days before the lash naturally sheds.
  • About 50% of lashes are typically in this phase, which is important to consider when timing touch-up appointments.
  • Understanding the telogen phase helps technicians explain natural lash shedding to clients and set realistic expectations for treatment longevity.
  • Products like professional conditioning treatments can help maintain lash health during this phase.

Professional Treatment Considerations

To ensure the best outcomes for clients, lash professionals should follow these comprehensive assessment guidelines and processing considerations:

Assessment Guidelines

  1. Thoroughly evaluate the natural lash direction and strength before any treatment.
  2. Check for signs of damage or weakness, which may require adjustments to your treatment plan.
  3. Determine appropriate processing times based on:
    • Lash thickness and texture
    • Natural growth direction
    • Current phase in the growth cycle
    • History of previous chemical treatments

Processing Time Adjustments

  • Increase processing time for downward-growing lashes to achieve the desired lift.
  • Reduce processing time for fine or damaged lashes to prevent over-processing and breakage.
  • Consider using Lami Super booster products for consistent results across different lash types.

Safety Precautions

  • Conduct thorough patch tests before any new treatment or product use.
  • Carefully monitor processing times to prevent over-processing and damage.
  • Use only professional-grade products designed for lash treatments.
  • Maintain detailed client records, including treatment history and any adverse reactions.

By following these guidelines and understanding the intricate anatomy of eyelashes, beauty professionals can deliver safe, effective, and customized lash treatments that enhance their clients’ natural beauty while maintaining optimal lash health.