We have all been there as beauty professionals: your schedule is fully booked, and your client walks in 20 minutes late. Instead of turning them away or throwing off your entire day, there is a professional solution – the Express Lash Lift.
In this tutorial, Maria Larionova, founder of Lami Super Booster, breaks down exactly how to perform an express lash lift safely and effectively.
What is an Express Lash Lift?
An express lash lift is a specialized technique designed to shorten the total treatment time by 20 to 30 minutes. This is achieved by combining two steps into one: the neutralizing process (Step 2) and the tinting process. Instead of applying these separately, the hydrogen peroxide setting lotion is mixed directly into the classical lash tint.
While it is an incredible technique to save time, it requires precise ratios and application to ensure the lashes are properly neutralized and tinted.
Pros and Cons of the Express Method
Is the express method right for every appointment? While some high-volume salons use it daily, it is generally best reserved for specific situations. Here is a breakdown of what to expect:
| The Pros | The Cons |
| Saves 20–30 minutes: Perfect for late clients or tight schedules. | Less control: Requires absolute precision with mixing ratios. |
| Increased client comfort: Less time spent lying down with eyes closed. | Slightly lower tint intensity: The color payoff is less intense than standard methods. |
| Happy clients: You avoid canceling on someone who is running behind. | Risk of poor retention: If mixed incorrectly, the lift may drop prematurely. |
The Golden Mixing Ratio
The most critical part of the express lash lift is getting your product ratio right. Because you are combining steps, the hydrogen peroxide in Step 2 now has to do double the work: it must activate the tint and neutralize the Step 1 lifting lotion.
- Standard Ratio: Normally, tint and developer are mixed in equal parts (1:1).
- Express Ratio: You must use 1.5x more Step 2 than tint.
Using this increased amount of setting lotion ensures there is enough oxidizing agent left over to fully neutralize the lashes after the tint is activated.
Step-by-Step Express Application Guide
Once your Step 1 processing is complete and the product has been entirely removed, follow these steps to perform the express application:
- Position the Lashes: Ensure all lashes are secured to the silicone shield or mix lash lift glue powder into the Step 2
- Mix the Product: Combine your classical tint with your Step 2 setting lotion using the 1.5x ratio mentioned above.
- Apply Evenly: Brush the mixture onto the lashes from the roots all the way to the tips, ensuring every single lash is fully coated.
- Avoid the Waterline: Carefully apply the product so that nothing touches the client’s delicate waterline.
- Process and Remove: Once the processing time is up, gently wipe away the excess product using a dry cotton bud.
- Final Clean: Remove the under-eye pads and silicone shields. Clean away any remaining product traces with a gentle makeup remover or water before the client opens their eyes.
Pro Tips for Lower Lashes and Short Baby Lashes
Taking your express treatment to the next level means paying attention to the details. Here are two expert tips to ensure a flawless result:
- Tinting Lower Lashes: Swap out your standard under-eye pad for a black silicone pad. This protects the client’s skin and prevents your light-colored, reusable silicone pads from becoming permanently stained by the tint.
- Taming Short Baby Lashes: Clients with short or stubborn lashes can be tricky. Apply a silicone lash compensator (a thin silicone ribbon) over the lashes on the shield. This holds even the smallest hairs securely in place, ensuring they stay in contact with the product and process evenly.
Shop the Look
Want to achieve these results in your own salon? Using high-quality, reliable products makes all the difference when combining chemical steps. You can find all the lifting lotions, tints, compensators, and silicone pads used in this tutorial at the Lami Super Booster E-Shop.
